The Humble Australian Wine Trend America Will Never Understand
The Humble Australian Wine Trend America Will Never Understand

Americans like to think they’re best in the world at everything. What’s frustrating for many of America’s critics is that they often are.But one field in which the USA is trumped by Australia is alcohol. The United States sits at #48 in the list of world’s biggest drinkers, whereas Australia comes in at #19, current World Health Organisation statistics show. America also has a puritanically high drinking age of 21, whereas Australia – like most civilised countries – has a drinking age of 18.The types of alcohol we consume are different, too. When it comes to market share, wine is king in Australia, with beer not far behind and spirits far off in the distance, ABS statistics report. In comparison, beer has the lion’s share in the US, followed by spirits and then wine, according to alcohol.org (and Homer Simpson). Perhaps that explains why this Australian wine trend hasn’t taken off in America – to the utter detriment of American wine culture.Namely, box wine.Before you throw a box of Fruity Lexia (and a bunch of ‘bogan’ stereotypes) at our heads, hear us out. Box wine, cask wine, Chateau Cardboard, space pillows, goon… Whatever you call it, box wine is a uniquely Australian invention that’s become synonymous with the ‘humble’ side of Australia’s drinking culture. For those not in the know, box wine is simply wine that rather than being filled into a glass bottle has instead been filled into a metallised plastic bladder, typically with an air-tight valve/spout, with the bag contained in a cardboard box.Now we know what you’re thinking: box wine certainly exists in the US, with brands like Franzia and Bota Box available across the country. But it remains a small part of the market, and box wine has quite a negative reputation in the US. It’s seen as low-rent, rather than down-to-earth and practical. Box wine is only responsible for around 18% of all wine sales in the US. In comparison, they make up over half of all wine sales in Australia.What America hasn’t cottoned on to yet – which Australians have – is the epicurean advantages of box wine. If you’ll excuse us getting up on our soapbox for a moment: box wine is the superior way to drink wine, and America’s reluctance to embrace it does their wine industry a disservice. Stop taking yourselves so damn seriously.

Image: Drinks Trade
Box wine has many obvious advantages over a traditional bottle of wine. Cardboard and plastic are cheaper, lighter, more space-efficient and less fragile than glass – which is precisely why it’s used for cheap wine. It’s also better for the environment, as it’s easier to recycle than glass. Being easier to transport than glass also cuts down on shipping costs, and therefore its carbon footprint.RELATED: ‘Strange’ Newtown Photo May Explain Australia’s Craft Beer ObsessionBut the least known advantage of box wine is its culinary value. Unlike a traditional bottle, which once uncorked needs to be consumed reasonably quickly, the design of a box wine’s bladder means it stays fresher longer; you don’t have the same rush. It’s unaffected by cork taint and doesn’t need any special tools to reseal. Because the inner bag is opaque and wine is dispensed from it without adding air to fill the vacated space, box wine is far more impervious to oxidisation than a bottle of wine.All in all, it actually looks after the wine better, resulting in a better drinking experience. Besides, once you decant the wine into a drinking glass, what does it matter what it was stored in? That’s the revelation more and more Aussies are waking up to, and now there’s a growing trend of premium Australian wineries choosing to produce box wine as well as bottles.Things aren’t all sunshine and daisies, however. Box wine has one functional disadvantage over bottles in that you can’t cellar it. But the vast majority of wine purchased in either Australia or America – and at all price points – isn’t ever going to be cellared. And let’s be honest: cellaring cheap wine is unlikely to improve it in any case.More pertinently, while the prejudice against box wine is far stronger in the US than it is in Australia, there’s still a prejudice against it here too. At least in America there are other drinks like malt liquor, hard seltzer and Everclear that give box wine competition in the trashy alcohol stakes: in Australia, ‘goon’ sits at the bottom of the totem pole. That prejudice extends to canned wine, too, a trend that’s ironically seeing stronger momentum in the US than it is here.RELATED: Outdated ‘No Glass, No Class’ Attitude Hurting Australia’s Wine IndustryIn short, both countries have a long way to go when it comes to ditching their preconceived notions about box wine – but Australia’s much further down the track, and if the US isn’t careful, they might be left behind.Indeed, it’s not even a question of being left behind, but a question of relative value. The biggest reason people are reluctant to revisit box wine is that they associate it with low-quality wine. But part of the reason box wine is so cheap is that producers can cut costs on the packaging, not necessarily the product. Crap wine will taste crap whether it’s put in a bottle or a bag, but pound for pound, boxed wine is the better choice if you want a better product.Essentially: don’t screw yourself out of a good wine experience just because you’re scared of the box.

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Look Taller With These Fashion Hacks
Look Taller With These Fashion Hacks

A man’s height is a fickle thing. For some it can be advantageous (playing basketball) and for others it’s purely a hindrance (getting things from the top shelf for randoms). I’m one of the lucky ones who falls into the first category, however no matter how much vertical girth you may have, men always want more.

It’s a look that us men tend to gravitate to when it comes comes to ideals. The notion of being tall gives off the alpha vibe of being dominant or strong. Unfortunately, the powers that be didn’t grace all of us with a physique like Ryan Reynolds.

There is a trick for our vertically-challenged brethren though. Whether you’re five foot two or six foot, these are the simple ways to look taller without getting leg transplants.

But First, The Fundamentals

Stand up straight. It’s possibly the easiest and best piece of advice you’re ever received from your parents and it still applies today if you want to look taller. Not only does it turn your core on and pull your diaphragm in, it will also extend your spine and lift you an inch or so. Don’t overdo it, otherwise you’ll end up looking like you want to punch on 24/7. Just gently extend to give off the appearance of height as well as confidence.

Wear Clothes That Fit You

Regardless of height you should always ensure your clothing fits you properly, however in the case of the vertically challenged, long arms and legs in clothing gives the appearance that you’re auditioning for the remake of Big. Ensure your jackets are not baggy and suits are fitted for your body shape. Removing extra fabric will generally give a sharper appearance in your physique. When it comes to suiting, slim ties will also help build an appearance of height. Find yourself a good tailor who you trust to alter your clothing and half your problem is solved. It’s definitely worth the investment.

Consider A Lift

Women use chicken fillets to give the appearance of size, which means you’re perfectly within your rights to add a little height in the heel area. You can either add an inner sole which will boost you by 1-2cm or go one step further and get yourself into a cuban heeled boot. Visit Zappos as they’ll have more than one pair of dressy boots with an elevated heel. You’ll really notice the difference when you’re out at bars and clubs when you’ve got a little extra edge, but keep it under two inches or you’ll look like you ordered them from bigsheilas.com.

Avoid Clothes That Truncate Your Body

Running vastly different block colours breaks up the length of your body and will make you appear shorter than you really are. Instead, go monochromatic or dress in similar hues to softly break your bottom half from your top half. There’s a reason Kanye West always wears black, it’s slimming and gives him a visual lift. In addition to this definitely steer clear of wearing horizontal stripes. That means nautical stripes and interesting dress shirts are completely out of the question. Hats are not a good idea too; they have a habit of putting a ‘lid’ on you effect, which is not recommended. Also avoid bowties – completely.

Choose The Right People To Hang With

We know you can’t break up with your mates because they’re too tall, but you can be aware of going out with your local footy club when all the guys are six foot four. The same goes with dating women who are a lot taller than you – we’re not saying don’t do it, just remember that when she wears heels you’ll appear even shorter.

Remember, a good majority of the world’s most successful men are short in stature. Formula 1 drivers, actors and dictators. A big personality and drive will have just as much effect as any of these tips. Just ask my best mate, The Iron Gnome…or this guy.

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‘Pressure Breathing’: Commonly Overlooked Squatting Technique Could Increase Your Gains
‘Pressure Breathing’: Commonly Overlooked Squatting Technique Could Increase Your Gains

Squats. One of the ultimate exercises anyone can perform in their pursuit of gains, or even weight loss. Able to be performed in a couple of variations, squats work a range of muscles in your body, most of which are found in your lower half (think: quads, hamstrings; glutes).But, in order to perform squats effectively and to minimise the risk of injury, you need to rely heavily on your core muscles, because a strong core will keep you far more stable throughout the movement.However, aside from having strong muscles to allow you to squat heavier and heavier weights, one of the key techniques to facilitate that rests on your breathing.Citing fitness account @nikgfitness, personal trainer James Kew has recently posted an image to his Instagram account detailing the correct breathing technique you should be following when performing barbell back squats (although it can be applied to front squats too), if you ever want to increase the load.

 
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Once you’re in a stable position: feet shoulder-width apart and with the barbell resting on your shoulders, take a deep breath in. However, this inhale alone needs to be perfected. Squat University adds that when you take a deep breath in, you should be taking that breath into your stomach, as opposed to into your chest (a common mistake).After this, squat low whilst still holding your breath, and push up (distribute weight through your feet, so that your heels and the balls of your feet and both planted into the ground, and with your knees pushing out). Keep holding your breath until you get close to the end of the movement before breathing out.You shouldn’t breath out when you reach the bottom of the movement, before pushing up. Doing so will relax your core and won’t provide the stability you need to push up with the load you’re squatting. Squat University also suggests you hold your breath for the entirety of the repetition so that you remain stable throughout, but if you breathe out at around 75-80% completion, you should be ok.This technique is best suited to those squatting higher weight loads for low repetitions, as opposed to lower weights for higher repetitions. Think 80-100kg for 5-6 reps, rather than 50-70kg for 10-12 reps.If your breathing technique needs some improvement, make sure you fix it without using weights to begin with, instead just performing bodyweight squats, before moving to low weights. After all, form and technique are key if you ever want to improve, failure to do so will only increase the risk of injury.

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How To Wear Cropped Jeans, Trousers & Pants In Almost Any Climate
How To Wear Cropped Jeans, Trousers & Pants In Almost Any Climate

What started out as a vero Italian style trait, has now become a global fashion trend. And one that’s proving to have vero stay-power. We’re talking about the cropped trouser. From suit separates to jeans, the short-leg pant has trickled down from Florentine flamboyancies witnessed at Pitti Uomo and moved onto the more fashion-forward abroad.  And nowadays, mainstream menswear is making the most of the cropped trouser, too.

While the bared ankle (or mankle) takes time getting used to, we’re seeing more of the cropped trouser in the office (with socks, of course) and almost everywhere on the weekend: from the rooftop bar in summer to nighttime weddings in autumn.

Feel like you’re the only one not rocking the cropped trouser? Or maybe you’ve tried the mankle look, and failed, due to too much exposure. Fear not, we’ve got the intel on how to wear cropped pants laid bare below. And what shoes work best, to boot.

How To Wear Cropped Pants With Perfection

As the cropped trouser continues its furore, many menswear brands are releasing pre-cropped varieties, as part of their regular collections, alleviating the need for men to roll or fold pant hems to get the short look.

But, we’re fans of doing things on our own (I mean, who doesn’t like a bit of DIY action?) First up, we’ve laid out three main ways to crop your trousers, using the regular length trousers you already have at home. Not handy? Just go out and buy a pair cropped trousers, instead. Here are three ways on how to wear cropped pants.

Loose Fold

Taking a pair of your favourite trousers, simply fold or roll (loosely) the hem, two to three times, finding a trouser height that looks stylish, but never contrived. The no-fuss manoeuvre adds a tapered edginess to normal-length trousers and works particularly well with lightweight chinos or selvedge denim.

The Tight Roll 

The tight roll is thinner and more cinched than the loose fold. Start by thinly folding the fabric of the hem, followed by rolling it (like you would a piece of flattening bread dough) over and up, onto itself. Stop at your desired height – never more than a few inches high.

The tight roll is more casual the loose fold: ideal for styling jeans (to show off your luxury leather sneakers) and creates a cool streetwear base to any outfit.

The Once-Up

Clean and sharp, the once-up fold is designed to crop dress trousers or separates with subtle precision. The look turns weekday suit pants into weekend wonders and makes mundane winter suits feel summery again, with a bit of exposed ankle.

Ironing the turn-up fold (and then pinning it for extra security) will keep the crop in place. But, if you’re intent on keeping the pant cropped, visit a tailor and have them alter the hem permanently.

Cropped Trousers & Socks

The cropped trouser will – more often than not – require ankle exposure. For those up to speed with common-sense hygiene, wearing shoes – sans socks – in summer, can only end one way: sweaty and smelly feet; the odour setting up home in your spotless luxury kicks or leather brogues.

Invisible socks or sockettes are, indeed, the answer. Despite their daintiness, these obscure foot coverers cut off below your mankles, leaving them blissfully exposed, without fear of smelling.

Cropped Trousers & The Correct Shoes

Now that we’ve separated the folders from the rollers (and the lovers of the pre-crop) on how to wear cropped pants, knowing what shoes and pants to wear together – with your exposed ankles between the two, is the final component.

Cropped Trousers On A Suit

Yes, this is now a thing thanks to the likes of Thom Browne. Next time you buy a suit you may find yourself asking for the trousers to be cut extra short. Keep in mind this is cool now, but maybe not next year… it may not be suitable for work either. Regardless, if you’re into the cropped suit look then opt for no sock and stick with plain coloured suits. Bright or patterned suits might attract a bit too much attention.

Cropped Trousers & Sneakers

The low-cut, white sneaker is a perfect pairing with a light cropped trouser or a wool-cotton trouser separate in the cooler months. Worn with a collared shirt and vintage shades, summer becomes cool once more, as a Talented Mr. Ripley-style dream team.

For the sock wearer, black cropped trousers pair well with dark coloured socks, opting for a pattern or bolder colour sock to disrupt the minimalism. White socks and sneakers are a nod to the ‘normcore’ trend (think Seinfeld), but it’s not so ‘Jerry’ when paired with a boat neck waffle neat in off-white; more Scandinavian and chic. Add a satiny bomber for a play on texture and an extra edge to your contemporary sports look.

Cropped Trousers & Espadrilles

Purely for summer, espadrilles were made for the cropped trouser. For a smart casual ensemble, look to white or khaki chinos and long-sleeve jersey shirt, with the sleeves nonchalantly pushed back. It’s a great driving outfit too, alongside your favourite leather duffle bag and shades; the crop giving you extra room to move.

RELATED: 5 Simple & Stylish Ways To Wear White

For an easy day at home – on the lounge or out back on the deck, slide into a pair of relaxed-fit cotton pants, the hems rolled tight, creating a cinched shape that mirrors the drawstring pull of the waist. The crop helps reign in the oversize nature of the loungewear, without compromising comfort and leg room.

Cropped Trousers & Boots

The opposite of the espadrille, the dress boot is perfect for winter or wet weather blues. And it sits nicely under a rolled denim jean or casual trouser. And the versatile boot comes in a variety of workable silhouettes. The dessert in dark tan or brown suede works well with raw denim jeans, the underside of the selvedge denim forming a white cuff on the ankle for a heritage twist.

RELATED: A Simple Guide To Men’s Dress Boots

The tight roll or fold up works well, ensuring the hem kisses the top of the tongue – never covering the boot (the whole idea of the roll is to shorten the leg) for the full cropped effect.  And, unlike the aforementioned, boots require socks – sans exception. Play with a speckled marl in winter to lift the textured of something black and slick when going minimal.

Cropped Trousers & Loafers / Oxfords

The cropped smart trouser is the piece de resistance this season in menswear. It’s clean form and natural fabrication make it the perfect transitional trouser – be it, for day-to-night dressing or from unpredictable weather, changing from summer to winter and back again.

And the lace-up dress shoe, brogue or derby, is perfect for cutting a refined figure under a slim-fit cropped trouser. The sophisticated peg or one fold is the key crop hem here – nothing messily rolled, ensuring the shoe isn’t too chunky or overbearing with metallic appendages (the trousers are already ‘fashion’ enough so keep the leather lace-up classic).

Wide-leg denim – coolly distressed and faded – also works with this shoe, especially with a vintage, burgundy shoe or tan brogue with a rounded toe. Again, go for no socks, but add a pair (maybe match them to your pocket square when wearing a jacket) in winter or when dress codes require it – weddings and night-time engagements.

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Photo Uncovers ‘Lost’ Iceland Experience Travellers Will Never Enjoy Again
Photo Uncovers ‘Lost’ Iceland Experience Travellers Will Never Enjoy Again

Iceland is a siren call. Most people have earmuffs on though; compared to Europe’s big-ticket hotspots, few visit The Land Of Fire & Ice. To a degree, this is understandable – Iceland is a long way from most places (and pricey). But before you sit back and leave it to the travel bloggers and intrepid surfers, consider the following image.

Posted this morning by Instagram account @discoverearth, the photo depicts an old Viking cave, which you used to be able to go into. The only catch? It was part of a film set. But still – historical authenticity notwithstanding – it was a cool hillside kink that let you envisage the landscape as if you were in an episode of HBO’s Vikings.

 

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A post shared by Discover Earth (@discoverearth)

It’s a shame then that this cave has now been shut off from the world: “Who would have gone through this cave?” @discoverearth wrote. “This place is closed now! The area was shut down after 2016, and the gate that opened into the cave is now permanently closed. The cave went down about five feet to the ground, and it had an empty space the size of a small bus.”


@discoverearth does not reveal exactly where this image was taken, but two old Viking village film sets can be found online which possess similar scenery here and here.

The original image was taken by photographer Ryan Cline, who wrote: “These two images remind me of what it’s like to miss a door that opens something to you, if you don’t take it, odds are it will shut. And much like this place now, you aren’t even able to reach the door, it gets completely shut down to everyone.”

 

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Another recent image of Iceland (see above), posted to Instagram by @type7, shows more of the country’s natural beauty, focussing on its vast plains.

From thermal pools to mind-melting waterfalls, there are myriad reasons why someone might want to visit Iceland. As DMARGE has reported previously, virtually the entire country runs on renewable energy, it’s consistently voted as one of the best countries for women to live due to its high egalitarianism, and it’s responsible for gifting the world with Björk.

Planet-saving measures and quirky singers aside, Iceland is also one of the most beautiful countries in the world and, as Traveller claims, does cafés better than Melbourne. We’ll drink to that.

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How To Make A Good Suit Look Great
How To Make A Good Suit Look Great

Ever wondered how a good suit should really fit? Well, you wouldn’t be the first.

If you’re going to go through the trouble of wearing a suit, you don’t want it to look just average like your dad’s hand-me-down suit. You don’t want it to look acceptable. You don’t even want it to look good. You want it to look sensational, a sartorial beacon amongst the darkness – and you shouldn’t settle for anything less. One way to do that is to drop thousands of dollars having someone design a suit just for you, but this isn’t a practical option for most guys.

Thankfully, there are plenty of tricks, tools and rules that can turn any ordinary suit into an extraordinary one. Listening?

Why Fitted Jackets Rule

Are you sick of hearing us say that fit is everything? Then sorry, today is not your day. Fit is everything. It’s the most basic building block of a great suit. If you don’t get it right from the very beginning, even the most expensive suit will look like something your blind aunt picked out for you when you were twelve. The right jacket should give you a full range of motion, both buttoned and unbuttoned, and should suit your body type.

  • If you’re shorter or stockier, stick to single-breasted
  • If you’re tall and lean, experiment with double-breasted
  • If you’re carrying little extra around your middle, a jacket with a lower button will elongate your silhouette

Choose The Correct Trouser Length

Tailoring your trousers is a must. Up top, they should sit near your waist – not your hips. You should be able to fit a finger – but not more – into the waistband comfortably. Down below, your ankles should be completely covered (even if you have spectacular taste in socks) and the hems should just brush the top of the heel.

This ensures the trousers drape properly and maintain their shape. Traditional tailoring dictates one break at the front of trousers and a straight line down the back. There should be no excess fabric pooling around your ankles. If you want a more modern look, you can opt for shorter trousers that have a half-break or no break at all, and show off your shoes and a sliver of sock. This subject is so important that we even spawned its own story for those who need more detail.

Sleeve Length To Cuff Length Ratio

Like a woman’s little black dress, your jacket sleeves should reveal something, but not too much. Aim for showing off about 1.5 cm or a half inch of shirt cuff. On the shirt side of things, your cuffs should not slide up when you stretch your arms. A good tailor will measure both arms separately because almost no one is symmetrical. If you’re wearing a button-cuff shirt, your sleeves should touch your wrists. If you’re rocking a French-cuff shirt, the cuffs should break a little further down. And never, ever forget to remove the label on the left sleeve of your jacket before wearing a new suit.

Jacket & Shirt Button Etiquette

Like a lot of etiquette lessons, jacket and shirt button protocol should be simple to follow, yet tons of guys still get it wrong.

  • Rule #1: Always unfasten your jacket buttons when you sit. No exceptions.
  • Rule #2: Always keep your cuff buttons fastened. Also no exceptions.
  • Rule #3: Button all the buttons on your dress shirt. Still no exceptions. (Unless you’re wearing no tie of course)
  • Rule #4: For two-button jackets, button the top button only. For three-button jackets, leave the bottom undone, fasten the middle, and choose whichever option you prefer for the top.
  • Rule #5: If you’re going the double-breasted route, keep the top and inside buttons fastened at all times, but always leave the bottom undone.

Great Shirt Collar With Well Tied Tie

Getting it right in the neck region requires a few elements to work together. First, as always, is the fit. You should be able to fit a single finger between your neck and the collar of your shirt, but no more than that. A small amount of shirt collar should be visible above the jacket. Shape and size are also important. Your collar should complement your face as well as the kind of knot you tie in your neckwear. Your tie knot should fill the space completely, so wider knots are better suited to spread or cutaway collars. To maintain formality, your tie knot should be balanced – asymmetrical knots are more casual than symmetrical knots. If you’re going without a tie entirely, keep the collar on the smaller side.

Need more help? See our guide on how to understand dress shirts, cuffs and collars.

Polished Shoes With Matching Belt

The matching shoes and belt are a tried-and-true style rule. A black belt is almost always a safe bet, but brown will be more appropriate with khaki suits and certain shades of grey. The buckles should match any other accessories you’re wearing, e.g. a watch. Footwear can present a bit of a conundrum. With all the options now available for men, your shoe collection could easily rival your partner’s.

How do you choose? Learn your way around the different kinds of men’s shoes. Oxfords, monk straps, brogues, derbies, loafers, Chelsea boots…all are possibilities, provided they fit the suit and the formality of the occasion.

Add Detail With Accessories

Accessories are one of the easiest ways to turn an average outfit into something extraordinary, but consider them carefully. Your possible options include:

  • Pocket squares
  • Cufflinks
  • Tie bars and lapel pins

Bear in mind that if you try to wear them all at once, you’ll end up looking like the sartorial version of a hoarder. Err on the side of restraint. The same goes for timepieces. If you’re wearing a watch with your suit, make sure it’s something elegant and sophisticated, not the bulky, shock-resistant number you wear to the gym.

Need help folding a pocket square? Check out our guide on how to fold different types of pocket squares.

Everything Freshly Pressed

And finally, last but not least, make sure everything is freshly pressed or ironed. Nothing ruins a stylish look like a cascade of wrinkles. Just ask a rocker from the 70s.

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How To Layer Clothes If You’re A Guy
How To Layer Clothes If You’re A Guy

Welcome to class, gents. Today’s lesson: how to master the art of layering. Be it, winter or summertime or some season in between, layering has a major role to play in staying comfortable, feeling good and looking even better – whatever the weather.

It can also provide you with more styles from your existing wardrobe so that means you’ll have more looks to play with without needing to spend more.

What Is Layering

Layering is a styling technique. It’s an outfit made up of clothes upon clothes, with each piece acting like a step or stage in the overall look. But, to avoid looking like Michelin man or a walking cream puff, the biggest thing to remember is this: layer thin to thick, and light to heavy.

This ensures that the most lightweight, breathable garments are closest to your skin, and the more durable, heavyweight pieces are protecting you from the elements. And, you can peel away the layers as your body temperature regulates to the indoor heat, after coming in from the cool. Smart, right?

How To Layer

As well as the practical points above, we wouldn’t be a men’s style publication if we didn’t discuss the aesthetics involved in layering. So, here are four most important layering styling tips to consider if you’ve got all the gear but no idea.

Remember, the secret isn’t so much to go out to buy as many pieces as you can – it’s to use what you already have (assuming you already have the basics) to create fresh new looks at the cost of nothing.

That old flannel shirt you’ve had since 2005? Pull it out, put a denim jacket over it and use a white v-neck or henley tee as your bottom base layer. Leave all unbuttoned. You now have an entirely new look from standard separates kicking around.

Best Layering Fabrics

Before putting together an outfit, it’s important to look at each piece and take it back to its fabric of origin. It’s all linked to the rule of dressing from light to heavy for practical purposes. But this has a visual affect too. Firstly, acknowledge most garments will be made from the the same type of fabrics: cotton, wool, or a blend of two.

Then, notice the difference in the weave, affecting the thickness and weight of the garment. Any two pieces may be made from say, pure cotton, but each will look and feel different due the warp and weft of the yarn that makes up the material.

Finally, break up the fabric mix by incorporating the latest in technical fabrics – such as moisture wicking shirts and waterproof jackets. The active accents are very on trend right now and will create an added fabric point of difference between your outer, inner and in-between layers.

Layering With Textures

Varying the texture simply means adding in and contrasting different fabric finishes, which gives off a sense of depth or light and shade to an outfit, especially when wearing the same fabric all over. As already mentioned, cotton is a major player. So – for texture’s sake – wear different cotton finishings such as waxed, brushed and garment-dyed to set each piece apart.

When it comes to casual wear or smart casual, unless your outfit is a set – such as two-piece suit – it’s vital you vary the texture. Especially, in monochrome, neutral and all-black looks. Head to toe earth tones or colourless clothes need texture to avoid your layered get up looking like a walking black hole.

Best Layering Colours

Layering allows colour-lovers to work in several different tones and shades (and even statement prints) into one unified look. For the colour-shy, layering means you can hide the bold hues and patterns as under layers, quietening their noise under a neutral and/or block coloured top coat or shirt jacket.

As always, put neutrals between pieces of colour, following the rules of colour matching. And don’t just go for dark shades. Lighter neutrals are very acceptable, even in winter, and add a freshness to the cooler season. Finally, going print-on-print means patterns need to be on scale, relative in size and not too busy. If you look like a walking muriel, change.

Layering Accessories

Isn’t it obvious? Those little things in your wardrobe life play a huge part in mastering the art of layering. From thick and chunky scarves to leather gloves and felt-y wool hats, accessories add functional personality to a layered look. And if you’re sporting just a two-piece look, these add-ons provide more layered-ness for your money.

But don’t go overboard, though. You work hard on your grooming, so don’t hide that great hair and clean face with too many head and facial ‘masks’, especially if you’re already piled up with clothes.

Layering Ideas

It goes without saying, but layers really apply to your top half (you’re not going to wear multiple pairs of pants or a pair of tailored shorts under or over your trousers). And most foolproof layering combos come in threes: a bottom, middle and top layer, and an outer layer for when it’s really cold. Here are three easy looks to pull off.

Layering With Shirts, Knits & Jackets

The cable knit or sweater with a graphic print is an essential layering piece. Take a basic tee or button down (something textural like a chambray or plaid flannel is perfect), and then layer a heavyweight bomber, winter chinos, chunky socks and smart leather boots for vintage and rustic look, that borders on lumberjack but is more street-style cool with the bomber.

Opt for a technical parka in a  parachute silk if it’s slightly warmer. The active accents will look better with sneakers and cuffed jogger pants, instead of chinos.

Layering With Knitwear

Layering knits is a surefire way to stay warm without too many layers bulking up your frame. Start by layering a chunky ribbed cardigan over a white crew neck tee and add in a thin gauge roll neck (eliminating the need for a bulky scarf). Then, take on slim-cut jeans, sneakers and add a wool cap and leather backpack for some extra texture in your stride.

Above all, your silhouette remains sharp and masculine, nothing frumpy about this off-duty look.

Layering With Shirt, Suit & Coat

Concerned about the office commute? Start with the suit. Considering the two-piece garment will take up the bulk of your look, you want one that’s warm and naturally textured, achieved via pure wool or flannel and a subtle check or stripe.

A single-breasted navy or grey suit is versatile and business ready, teamed with a cotton twill button up (a thicker shirt fabric weave for warmth). Add a coloured tie in knitted silk and waistcoat (matching or contrast), or a cardigan (or even a denim jacket for something edgy). The middle layer should add in texture without too much extra bulk. Then, layer a tailored overcoat in wool. Or a coated cotton trench for a rainproof jacket, check the weather report before heading out.

Layering Clothing FAQ

What is the best base layer material when layering?

For your base layer, your best options are synthetics like polyester and nylon, or natural fibers like merino wool and silk. Most people, though, people simply go with their personal fabric preference.

How do you layer with scarves?

Scarves are an essential component of layering. You can wear a bold scarf to enhance a neutral look, or go for a more subtle color and pattern to balance out a bolder outfit.

How do you layer with patterns?

Layering with more than two patterns is risky. Your look become visually cluttered, making it difficult for anyone to focus on a single aspect of your clothes. When layering, you can alternate or go two patterns in a row, followed by a solid.

Click through the slideshow for five layering must-haves this season.

The post How To Layer Clothes If You’re A Guy appeared first on DMARGE Australia.

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How To Wear Camouflage Print, Without Standing Out Like A Sore Thumb
How To Wear Camouflage Print, Without Standing Out Like A Sore Thumb

When out in the jungle, or on safari, camouflage is traditionally worn to help the wearer blend in with their surroundings. That’s not exactly the case when wearing it down the high-street as part of a look, with the intention there being to rock a print not attempted by many people.

But while camouflage may be used as a means to differentiate yourself from the crowd and to stand out, there is still a right and a wrong way to go about it. Fortunately, you have plenty of options when it comes to wearing camo, with the print being used for t-shirts, jackets, pants and all manner of accessories, for those who wish to play things a little safer when adding the print into their look.

Lining them up one by one, let’s take a look at the key camouflage pieces to help you stand out, without looking out of place.

Camouflage Shirt Jacket

CamoField

Getting specific, it’s the field jacket – and the coat’s army origins – that make it a no-brainer camouflage companion. But, as menswear forays into the fashion-forward, the field jacket takes on starker camo-colours (bright khaki) and bolder army accents (flashy patches and logos) that work in making the top layer stand out as a statement piece.

While the print has changed, the jacket’s fit has certainly returned to form, with designers adopting a military-inspired boxy silhouette and multiple utilitarian-style pockets, making it just as stylish as it is practical. For a fashionable weapon in the awkward in-between season, layer an open camo shirt-jacket over a plain white t-shirt, black jeans and sneakers, keeping the under pieces monochrome for a cleaner platform from which the camo-coat can launch.

Eyeglasses & Sunglasses

CamoShades

More a pacifist in regards to army print? Accessories are a great way to get a little burst of camouflage into your wardrobe. While sunglasses are literally an in-your-face take on the season’s military fascination, you’ll fare well without too much prior training to pull it off.

Why? Camouflage sunglasses are similar in pattern and hue to tortoiseshell. Helping camo’s cause, designers are releasing classically-styled sunglasses for men – D-frame to acetate aviators – that are lightweight but sturdy and far from boisterous. So as a camo rookie, you’ll be comfortable wearing the army print, before you progress up the camo ranks to sergeant.

Backpack

CamoBag

A less incognito accessory for camouflage is the backpack. Living up to its utilitarian way, the backpack remains functional in form (strapped to the back), but also relishes in the rebellion of misspent youth as a schoolbag carryall.

This season, designers are releasing canvas-printed models with a plethora of pockets and buttery black leather trims, lifting the luxury up notch. But they’re more affordable than their all-leather fellows. Bucket varieties – with a drawstring top closure – as well as satchel-esque designs are big among high-end brands too. Whatever your material and model of choice, the camo-backpack makes for an on-point work bag (in darker hues) and something off-duty in more distinct shades, adding interest to a typical black sweater, jeans and white sneakers ensemble.

Scarf

Scarf

The ultimate depth-addition to any ensemble, the scarf takes a military stance on layering with camouflage. But not too heavy-handed. Made from fine gauge wool, designers are crafting remarkably lightweight scarves that are mid-length and made to hang undone and symmetrical, across the front of waffle-knit sweater, chastened by an open bomber jacket.

Coming in various shades of blue too, the camouflage print makes it a cool change up from the typical tartan checked or striped scarves a lot of men will be wearing this season. Get a camo one in a lush silk-cotton blend, and you’ll be wearing it whatever the season, and for years and years to come.

Tie

CamoTie

Camouflage can even have a place in the office. Before the thought of a camo-print suit fills you with sartorial fear, we’re talking more the finer things in workplace attire: ties. The traditional olive green in camouflage takes a demotion, replaced by navy, making it more office-ready with a white shirt and sharp charcoal suit.

Fancier still, camo-print has been modernised by some designers, constructing shapes from graphic, digital-looking patterns that still carry the camo aesthetic. The subtle geometry of the tie gels intimately with stripes on tailored blazers, and printed bombers and shorts in summer. Just keep the shirt white, and overall palette neutral; playing around with tone and shade to suit your taste.

Sneakers

camosneaker

The sneaker is a sartorial staple for men now. And with luxury brands jumping on the sneaker run, designers have had to find new ways to dress the sneaker, making it look anything but gym-ish. And prints such as camouflage have been enlisted.

This season the camouflage colour combinations get more interesting and so do the sneakers who are recipients of the print. Slip-on sneakers that combine khaki colours with pops of vivid red or blue, are the perfect mix of active accents with utility charm. Wear with a soft-shelled two piece suit and t-shirt for a dressier weekend look or go super urban with jogger pants, a tee and nylon anorak. And leave the socks back at base-camp.

The post How To Wear Camouflage Print, Without Standing Out Like A Sore Thumb appeared first on DMARGE Australia.

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A Guide To Men's Shirt Collar Types For Casual & Formal Occasions
A Guide To Men's Shirt Collar Types For Casual & Formal Occasions

With the rebirth of traditional collars – mixing it with the best in contemporary versions and variations – men have so many ways to express personal style through their dress shirts.

With a plethora of collars on offer, the choice for stylish men extends beyond a taste for a certain colour and pattern. But with so much choice, it’s easy to be like that awkward dinner party guest who’s started eating his main course with the bread and butter knife, only to be told later of his embarrassing etiquette mistake by a friend.

It speaks sophistication to be able to choose the appropriate collar for everyday wear or a special-occasion event. No more social mishaps or fashion faux pas need plague your busy schedule; collar etiquette is what’s on the menu, gents. So, whet your appetite.

Breaking It Down

The collar is the dress shirt’s most standout feature. So a poor, casual choice when attending a formal event instantly singles you out style-inept and destroys all the hard work put into a bespoke suit and well-sheened shoes.

Today, there are many collar types to choose from. But, the following guide outlines the more common examples; ones that every gentlemen should know how to work.

The Straight or Forward Point Collar

Essentially, the straight point collar is the most balanced collar type, suiting both formal and casual attire. It is cut using straight lines, which end in a point, and is distinguished by its small spread (the physical gap that sits between the two collar points).

Mostly associated with the traditional men’s dress shirt, it’s a foolproof collar choice for the office, wedding or smart casual rendezvous.

The collar works well with most lapel styles (peak, notch or shawl). And as for the tie, the four-in-hand – recognised for its smaller knot, is your best option. Why not try the look without a tie for a dressed-down aesthetic: a snug blazer, chino trousers and sockless brogues for the win.

RELATED: How To Wear Shoes Without Socks

The Spread or Cutaway Collar

The spread or cutaway collar is known for having the spread wide apart (where the two points meet). It’s seeing a welcomed resurgence of late with men taking the time to dress up a bit more. The style is best suited to for­mal occasions and traditionally worn with a larger knot tie, such as a half Wind­sor or full Wind­sor. But play around with smaller knot ties too, if the event isn’t super formal.

The spread does vary – from regular cutaway to extreme cutaway – shifting widths and angles, and it’s a perfect choice for a sophisticated romp in the city for the super corporate workplace. Don’t go tie-less with this collar. But instead, dress-down the tie-and-shirt combination with a pair of jeans and loafers.

Button-Down Collar

The button-down collar is connected directly to the shirt fabric via two small buttons. The least formal of the collar types, the button-down can be worn with or without a tie and is best for more casual events.

The spread varies from brand to style, so play around with what type you want, depending on the inclusion of a tie or not.

Try wearing the button-down collar sans tie and let the shirt remain unbuttoned to the top. Then, rock it with chino shorts and white sneakers, leaving the shirt untucked for relaxed summer vibes.

Wing Tip Collar

The wing tip collar is designed to house the bow tie. By far the most for­mal col­lar, the wing tip is usu­ally worn with a tuxedo. It’s a short shirt col­lar that has two small wings at the front.

Wing collar shirting often comes in crisp white, cotton poplin for those dapper black tie events. But essentially, this type of shirt is not a wardrobe staple unless you fre­quent the Oscars or plan to attend the wedding of an English aristocrat.

Tab Collar

The tab collar is a shorter version of the straight point collar. It’s a rarer collar and is most popular for bespoke-taste gents who seek something super traditional. The tab collar’s purpose is to promote the tie knot. So, wear it with a woven medium width tie in silk or light cotton, and keep the knot small – the four-in-hand method is the best approach.

Again, don’t go tieless with this style and pair the shirt with a bespoke suit or jacket and business-ready Oxfords.

Club Or Rounded Collar

The rounded collar was part of Eton College’s (school of Prince William and Harry) dress code beginning in the mid-1800s. Belonging to the exclusive school club, the rounded collar was soon coined the ‘club’ – and it was adopted by the Mods and golfers.

Today, it is one of the rarer collars but it remains a classic of men’s style. Keep the tie knot small and, if you want to follow in the footsteps of some stylish gents, you can even stick a metallic pin that lays horizontal across the spread, connecting the two points.

Meanwhile, fashion types – intent on channelling formal nostalgic looks – are also getting onto the club collar, working the shirt done up to the top of the neck and without a tie – or open and with a neckerchief. Choose your club, and stick to it.

Final Word

While there remains a code of rules that govern the dress shirt collar – be it wing tip for bow ties or the cutaway with a windsor knot tie – the collar game can be played around with a bit; interchanging different tie widths or a no-tie look, depending on the social expectations of the event.

More Learning On Fabrics & Cuffs…

Finding a shirt is easy, but finding a good one is a different story. Between fabric selection and dozens of variations on collars and cuffs, it’s easy to get lost in the noise and end up with something that makes you look like a waiter at a function. Here’s what you need to know about dress shirt fabrics and cuff styles.

Cotton Dress Shirts

Cotton is the workhorse fabric of shirting. It’s a natural fibre that’s derived from a plant, so that it breathes well, is easy to dye and print, and doesn’t wrinkle up like a crushed piece of paper in the way that linen does. However, not all cotton is created equal. It’s worth your time to dig into a brand’s production process to sort the worthy from the shite.

Silk Dress Shirts

Silk shirts come and go, but they are a hard sell for those of us that don’t want to look like a sweaty mess or aspiring mafioso. Silk doesn’t have the same breathable qualities of cotton and it doesn’t wick away moisture. You don’t want to look like a sleazy mug either, so keep them under lock and key for the throwback parties or Client Liaison shows.

Linen Dress Shirts

Linen is the summer fabric. Its natural qualities – derived from flax plant –  make it lightweight and breathable, so it’s definitely your best option if you have a holiday in the tropics or can’t cop an Aussie summer. However, linen tends to wrinkle, and fast. For this reason, it won’t fly in the boardroom unless you have a P.A that’s keen to do some serious ironing on the hour, every hour.

Polyester Dress Shirts

Don’t you do it. Polyester doesn’t breathe, looks tacky even when it is new, and uses dodgy chemicals. Sure, it’s tough and water resistant but that’s as good as it gets. Cotton isn’t much more expensive and will serve you much better for the reasons we illustrated.

Button Cuffs

Button or barrel cuffs are the most common style of cuff. In case the name didn’t give you a hint, these cuffs are closed by button, compared to double cuffs that allow for silver or silk knot links. There are too many variations of the humble button cuff to rattle off on a list. You can find these with up to three buttons, with rounded or square cuff edges, among other minor modifications you probably take no interest in. A common fixture for casual wear, and not really appropriate for anything more formal than the boardroom.

French/Double Cuffs

French cuffs, also known as double cuffs, include an extra layer of fabric that folds back on itself, allowing the use of silver or gold cufflinks. You might find that they’re chunkier and longer than button cuffs, and don’t even bother trying to roll them up. Most guys develop a preference early and don’t budge, but they are still the immutable standard for black and white tie dress. They’re regaining popularity among the power-suiting aficionados but for sheer versatility you can’t go better than the barrel cuff.

Bond/Milanese/Turnback/Cocktail

This peculiar cuff is something of a middle-ground between button and French cuffs. It has an extra fold of curved fabric, like a French cuff, but it buttons up through the middle. What does this have over other cuffs? Diddly squat, and the controversy over its utility and adherence to standards hasn’t gone anywhere.
Sartorial nerds hated it because it disrupted convention, normal guys love it because the cuff killed two birds with one stone and has something to do with 007. A rare find in RTW collections, but we think there are probably more flattering ways to emulate Sir Roger Moore.

Convertible Cuffs

Some guys really want to do menswear on the cheap. Convertible cuffs include both button fastenings and link holes to insert cufflinks, eliminating the necessity of different shirts for each option. We’re not big fans. It’s hard to wear these and not look like a bit of a stingy bastard. It doesn’t help that most brands worth your money avoid these as strenuously as they can. Sure, they’re supposed to give you versatility, but how hard is it to get more than one shirt? Fire up and build a rotation.

The post A Guide To Men's Shirt Collar Types For Casual & Formal Occasions appeared first on DMARGE Australia.

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