Accept it. What you’re wearing right now, and much of your current wardrobe, is born out of the last century. Hippies, punks, the military and nineties skaters – these subcultures have all returned as seasonal trends lately, making a comeback since their forties, fifties, sixties and seventies induction into menswear.

So, with all these bygone eras and bold fashion items on display, how can men navigate the world of retro fashion trends? What decades are dead? And what retro must-knows are happening in menswear right now? And which are here to stay? All will be answered and more if you read on.

Bowling Shirt With Trousers

According to Reece Crisp, menswear buying manager at Farfetch, the fifties and seventies are major trends this season. But, the retro trend, and the key items that come with these decades, is manifesting in a contemporary way.

“Think bowling shirts with cropped trousers, and shearling jackets styled with oversized sweatshirts and track pants,” says Crisp.

Retro Shirt With Modern Jacket

But, before you a grand ol’ vintage binge (or raid your grandpa’s closet), it’s important to work retro pieces with modern ones, and stick to your personal style guns – no imitations.

“Fuse the old with the new. It creates a more unique and individual look,” adds Crisp. “Keep it simple and don’t try to be someone else. Essentially, execute the look using key items that you are into.”

Leather Jacket With Jeans

The condition of the vintage-look item is super important. This includes things like the wash or colour of the item, as well as shape or silhouette and the fabric.

“Rocking brand new items, with really worn out vintage pieces is a don’t,” cautions Crisp. “Shape is also key. Silhouettes have changed dramatically, so it’s important that you bear in mind that even if the wash of the jean is right, you can get it very wrong with the fit.”

Lastly, making the choice to go authentic vintage – that is, an item actually worn and used in say, the seventies, can make all the difference. “Something like a biker or shearling jacket, I would go vintage every time. As perennial style pieces they age better and have more character as they do,” says Crisp.

Light Blue Jeans For Casual Wear

Collectively this season, vintage denim looks a lot like a light wash, blue pair of jeans in a straight-cut fit and a slightly high waist – much like the trouser. Channelling Americana workwear, look to something like the Levi’s 501 jean, roomier in the seat and tapered from the knee down for a contemporary fit.

“Light blue jeans are a men’s staple,” says Crisp. “Wear them with everything, except maybe with tailoring such as a formal blazer.”

Shearling Bomber Jacket For Colder Months

If you only buy one jacket this year, make it a shearling bomber. Steeped in early-last-century aviation and seventies cool, you don’t have to go the whole way with the sheep skin feel. Shearling, especially in not so hot climates, is most versatile as a collar trim on leather bomber jacket.

In true winter chill, invest in a fully-lined one, keep you feeling warm and looking cool. The beauty of a shearling jacket is that it’s a statement in its own right. Just add a t-shirt, jeans and clean cut sneakers. Or, as Crisp insists on wearing the jacket, keep in authentically retro and bold: “Go Rocky-style.”

Turtleneck Sweater With A Coat

Also known as a turtleneck or skivvy, the rollneck sweater is one of the most polarising retro fashion items to return to the contemporary menswear market. But, it packs a punch when worn correctly, considering not many guys can or want to pull it off.

Rock it under a suit jacket or overcoat in winter. “Or style it under a check shirt, and a suede Harrington,” says Crisp. “Get those textures going.”

Revere Collar Shirt For Warmer Months

One of the biggest summer must-haves, the revere collar shirt is the perfect way to inject some Frank Sinatra-goes-on-vacay into your personal style, without the need for a straw fedora.

Look for bold vintage prints in faded colours (sun-beaten is more subtle) and wear the Cuban-feel shirt with tailored chino shorts and espadrilles or linen trousers and loafers for a smarter feel. It’s a great layering piece worn open over a singlet or t-shirt. And for a streetwear vibe, “style it over a long sleeve tee.” Add some nineties kicks and tapered track pants.

Peak Lapel Jacket For Formal Occasions

In the twenties and thirties, the peak lapel ‘peaked’ on many single-breasted suit and dinner jackets. But nowadays, the flare-ish lapel is more common as double-breasted blazer, adding to the jacket’s expansive line, and thus, broadening the shoulders. Practicalities aside, it’s a statement lapel that ripped up smart casual style at Pitti Uomo’s most recent edition, and isn’t ‘peaking’ anytime soon.

“Go classic with a twist,” says Crisp. “Team with a granddad collar shirt.” Footwear? Chunky sole derbies or simple leather sand shoes.

Short Swim Trunks For Swimming

Swim shorts offer a mix of fun and practical this season. Just like the spring racing carnival, your swimmers should embrace colour and print as a way of standing out from the beach crowd and celebrating summer. And if you’ve got the confidence to do so, trunk styles are going shorter (but not tighter) too, this season. But within reason.

“The short retro trunks are only ok at the beach,” says Crisp. And, keep the retro boat afloat with a vintage top to match. “Style with a towelling tee.”

White Sneakers With Jeans

The white sneaker isn’t new. But it’s the ultimate blast-from-the-past shoe and is going even more vintage this season with canvas-leather models kicking up the scene and a plethora of heritage brands reintroducing classic sneaker silhouettes.

Read Next

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• The Only Leather Jacket Brands You’ll Ever Need To Know

The post How To Dress Retro When You’re A Guy appeared first on DMARGE Australia.

If someone asked you to name professions you’d consider trustworthy, chances are you’d say doctors, nurses, teachers or scientists. Conversely, if you had to say which professions you trust the least, you’d be likely to say politicians, bankers or real estate agents – particularly if you’re Australian.

With Australian property prices at an all-time high despite broader economic conditions looking rather glum, real estate agents have never been less popular – something the stats back up, too. According to Roy Morgan’s most recent Image of Professions Survey, real estate agents are one of Australia’s worst regarded professions, with only advertising and car salespeople considered less reputable.

At least ad men are at least considered glamorous (in no small part due to the effect of hit TV show Mad Men). Real estate agents aren’t quite so lucky. Ask the man on the street about what they think of real estate agents and get prepared for a torrent of stereotypes about sleazy blazers, tight pants and haircuts almost as bad as their handshakes. Ouch.

But like many tropes that abound in Australia, those about real estate agents are stale and in need of throwing out. Not only are many real estate agents pretty nice people, but they’re also pretty well-dressed. In fact, we’d say real estate agents might just be the best-dressed bastards in the country… Now that’s a take that’s hotter than the property market.

 

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DMARGE chatted exclusively with veteran real estate agent, founder of The Rubinstein Group (and quite the snappy dresser) Gavin Rubinstein, who suggests that the negative perception of real estate agents in this country – both sartorially and professionally – comes from a few bad apples.

“I think just generally, people’s perception of real estate agents is pretty low,” he relates.

“I don’t blame the community for having that perception because it’s an industry that has a very low barrier for entry and unfortunately that makes it easy for people to hop in [and] lower the bar for everybody else.”

In short: it’s a minority of poorly-dressed, poorly-mannered souls who are ruining the profession for the rest.

Now we can hear your bullshit detector going off: of course that’s what a real estate agent would say. But don’t take Rubinstein’s word for it: all you have to do is spend a bit of time on social media and you’ll see how the game has changed. Try browsing a hashtag like #sydneyauctions, #melbourneproperty or #australianrealestate on Instagram and you’ll see what we mean: no fake tans or fake watches in sight, just normal (albeit pretty well-dressed) men and women.

 

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Indeed, Rubinstein explains that there’s a strong incentive for real estate agents to think carefully about what they wear:

“You’re representing an asset that, on average, is worth millions. I like to practice what I preach: I tell everyone I represent how important the presentation of their property is, and I would be somewhat of a hypocrite if I looked sloppy.”

And there’s the kicker: in this ultra-competitive industry, real estate agents simply can’t afford to dress badly or be sleazy. That’s why they’re Australia’s best-dressed profession – because they have no choice but to be.

Perhaps we’re so caught up in the popular perception of what a real estate agent is supposed to look like or behave that we can’t see the woods for the trees. Maybe there was a time where real estate agents found that dressing as flashily as possible helped project a successful image and boosted agents’ bottom line, but times have changed. Or maybe we’re just jealous.

Rubinstein’s take? “Real estate is a contact sport… You want to be presentable but you also want to be yourself. There’s no set rule; no algorithm: you don’t have to be in a suit and tie with a pocket square and smart shoes. Some clients don’t care what you wear, and others really do.”

That’s the thing about stereotypes: they obscure the truth. There’s more than meets the eye…

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The post Australia's Most Vilified Profession May Actually Be The Country's Best Dressed appeared first on DMARGE Australia.

If you’ve ever been to a classic car show, you’ll notice that many cars have very small aftermarket steering wheels put in. While it’s partially an aesthetic choice, many car fans joke that it’s because the type of men who drive classic cars are normally too fat to fit under a normal steering wheel… At least, that’s the stereotype.But it’s not just portly muscle car fans who struggle to get in and out of their cars, it seems. Even Formula One drivers struggle sometimes – as Daniel Ricciardo revealed last week.Earlier this month, McLaren shared footage of Ricciardo getting his seat fitted at the British team’s HQ, the excited Aussie racer describing the workshop as “like NASA”. He came crashing down to earth, however, when he found that his moulded carbon fibre bucket seat couldn’t accommodate his “large hips”. We’re sure many men have used that excuse before, too…

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The reality is that many sports cars aren’t actually comfortable (let alone F1 cars). Performance vehicles have seats that are aggressively bolstered and designed to prevent the driver from moving around, often to the detriment of out-and-out comfort. For bigger or older men, this can be somewhat of an inconvenience – but in Ricciardo’s case, it’s something he just has to deal with.Ricciardo is hardly a man mountain – he’s about 1.8m tall – but he’s quite large for an F1 driver. Most F1 drivers tend to be short, skinny and gristly: in a sport where you’re fighting physics at every turn (literally), the less space you take up and the less you weigh, the better.RELATED: Daniel Ricciardo Drains Half Court Monster In Impressive NBA Training DebutRicciardo’s teammate Lando Norris, in comparison, is one of the shortest men on the grid at only 1.7m tall. More to the point, Norris isn’t quite as broad as Ricciardo, meaning he didn’t have as much problem fitting into the new MCL35M race car.Both drivers have since been able to test the new F1 car on the track, testing the bright orange and blue beast on a very wet Silverstone Circuit. Ricciardo seemed in particularly good spirits during his test drive, waving to cameras and joking with the pit crew in his typically affable way.The 2021 Formula One World Championship will kick off with the Bahrain Grand Prix on the 26th to the 28th of March, with the Australian Grand Prix (which normally opens up the season) being pushed back tentatively to November due to the ongoing COVID-19 crisis. Travel restrictions have also seen the Chinese Grand Prix indefinitely postponed, with Imola returning to the F1 calendar in its slot, formula1.com reports.2021 will see a record 23 Grands Prix raced, in contrast to 2020’s shortened 17-race schedule. Controversially, a Grand Prix will be held in Saudi Arabia for the first time – something both fans and drivers aren’t particularly pleased about.

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The post Daniel Ricciardo's Awkward Car Seat Problem Something Every Man Can Relate To appeared first on DMARGE Australia.

Trousers lengths and hems are creeping up the leg faster than Christmas is coming. In recent years, we’ve seen the length of a man’s trouser getting increasingly cropped and even rolled at the hem as we shun the standard suit pant length.

Seen as a moniker of personal style (instead of an adherence to dress codes), the correct trouser length tends to be more of an afterthought when selecting a suit for most when priority often falls to jacket fit or sleeve length.

So, what actually is the correct trouser length you should be wearing?

“Although there is some room for personal preferences with the length of your trousers, there shouldn’t be too much deviation from the gold standard: trousers that “break” just over the top of your shoe,” says Nick Sangster, tailor and co-founder of the Afternoon.

“Essentially, a trouser break breathes character into what can otherwise be a beautiful, but plain, pair of trousers.”

Tripping over the rules pertaining to trouser length? Here’s what you need to know about the breaks, cuffs and hems to step up your trouser game.

Determining The Trouser Break

The trouser break is the fold or crease of fabric above the bottom of the front of the trouser leg. Essentially, it’s where the hem ‘breaks’ or meets the shoe.

“Almost like a kink in the trouser leg when standing upright,” explains Sangster. The break signifies proper pant length. And, this season, having a trouser break is the best portrayal a man’s ability to dress well.

“The trousers shouldn’t rise too high up the calve when sitting down, and when standing up, you shouldn’t be able to see any of the sock or crop any of your shoe (when wearing a low-cut shoe),” insists Sangster. “That way, you don’t detract from either the trouser or the shoes.”

Formal Vs. Casual Trouser Length

While the break is crucial for traditional trousers, there is plenty of room to adjust the break to suit your own style. But first, consider this: how formal is occasion is that you’re going to attend? And, how fashion-y do you want to appear?

“Overall, it’s important to avoid the dreaded sack-suit look, where the trouser drags at the heals, or the very high-cut leg, which some might consider inappropriate for a formal suit,” says Sangster.

“However, the aforementioned really only applies to a formal trouser if you want to stick by the rules.” So, when rocking a more casual trouser, there is plenty of room to have a higher cut.

RELATED: How To Rock Cropped Trousers

 Formal Trouser Break

For most corporate offices, semi-formal and formal events (black tie) — where a sharp suit and nice leather dress shoes are essential – a slight to medium trouser break should be incorporated into the leg.

“Men should aspire for a subtle break over the top of their shoe with formal trousers,” says Sangster.

Avoid full breaks in today’s fashion arena, as well as no breaks — the latter can undo all that hard work you put into a sophisticated tux, and appear cheap instead, with a cropped trouser.

If the dress code is unclear, stick to your traditional guns. “A subtle break, as a general standard, should be your guide in almost all scenarios.”

Casual Tailoring Trouser Break

The formal rules of style may not always work with casual tailoring. Still big this season, casual trousers — from linen pants to chinos and jeans — come available short or cropped.

“Shorter cuts are often styled with casual sneakers and shirts,” says Sangster. “We see more and more men opting for casual trousers, hemmed around one and half inches above the cuff of the shoe, paired with casual shirting and slim low profile sneakers.”

And, it’s really a case of do whatever you want to achieve a particular high-low look.

RELATED: How To Rock The White Sneaker With Style & Class

Cuffs Vs. Straight Hem Trousers

Trouser turn-ups or cuffs are a great touch to casual styles (think chinos and linen) but they’re not fit for formal wear, as general rule.

As a rule, flat fronts —  the more formal style of pant — should have no cuffs (think gents on the Continent), single-pleated pants are deemed versatile, and two pleats should always have cuff (British mid-century).

But again, do your research. Formal events are increasingly laid back nowadays, which is crowning the the cuffed hem king this season, regardless of pant type.

“We are seeing a lot of cuffed or ‘turn up’ hems this season,” says Sangster. “While there doesn’t really appear to be a strong trend toward cuffed hems, we have definitely noticed an increase in men enquiring about turn up hems.”

Trouser Alteration Rules

If you’ve got a new pair of trousers that need hemming or a favourite pair of trousers that are too long, getting the length — and the stitch — right, is important. The key? Blind hemming.

“There’s nothing worse than being able to see the hem of the trouser. If you’re uncertain of the length, ask your tailor to retain as much excess fabric as possible, just in case the hem needs to be taken back down again.

The other word of caution when altering: wear low-cut shoes, not high-cut boots.

“When the trousers are fitted and the boots are on, the trousers look great. As soon as men switch in a pair of low-cut shoes, the cut of the trousers is too high and looks awkward,” says Sangster.

“As a rule, never wear a pair of boots when getting fitted unless you intend to only wear the trousers with boots.”

Wide Leg Trouser Length

A relaxing of the iconic slim-fit trouser – thanks to the Japanese and British mid-century designers – has seen a push for roomier fit trousers, in a wide-leg.

“Men seem to be enjoying the opportunity to wear comfortable trousers that are versatile with street wear,” says Sangster. But keep the length short, to pack a style punch, avoid your shoe being swallowed up.

“The wide-leg trouser is, indeed, a trend, and should be purchased only after you have a invested in a trouser with a regular break.

“Have your wardrobe staples in order before getting too experimental: it’s better to purchase a piece of clothing that’s versatile with many looks,” adds Sangster. “Not a pair of trousers that only work in limited circumstances.”

The post The Correct Suit Trouser Length Can Make Or Break Your Suit appeared first on DMARGE Australia.

We’ve all heard the phrase, “when in Rome.” But in the 1960s the most scintillating action was 114km away, on an island you’ve probably never heard of.Introducing: Zannone. Also known as Italy’s hidden ‘orgy island.’ Sitting off the coast between Roma and Naples, it was once a licentious destination for the rich and famous.Zannone is part of the cluster of Pontine Islands. It was leased from the Italian government by a Roman aristocrat – Marquis Camillo Casati Stampa di Soncino – and his actress wife – Anna Fallarino – in the 1960s.They stayed in a villa built in the 1930s, passed from one noble family to the next.The two welcomed all sorts of visitors…. for all sorts of parties. The guest list included celebrities, billionaires and even members of the Italian nobility.

 

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According to Wanted In Rome, “The couple’s villa, situated on the summit of the rugged ‘red-light’ island, was the scene of heavy drinking and wild parties, with orgies also taking place in surrounding bushes and on the beach below.”

“The villa allegedly had a ‘hidden mirror room’ where the marquis could spy on sex sessions, many of them involving his wife, who enjoyed swimming naked with guests.”

Interestingly enough, the villa was built atop what used to be a medieval monastery. Holy ground indeed…

 

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Former fisherman Giorgio Aniello told CNN Travel of the Marquis: “He was a lewd man, a voyeur who liked to watch and photograph his starlet wife get kinky having sex with other younger guys.”Perhaps the nuns were kicking in their graves over the new use for Zannone; on the 30th of August 1970, the island’s debauchery was savagely stopped. The Marquis – furious after discovering his wife had fallen for one of her young lovers – shot them both dead and then killed himself.The double murder-suicide happened in the couple’s apartment on Via Puccini in Rome, and brought the goings-on at Zannone to light when authorities found Marquis’ secret diary and a locked drawer of 1,500 ‘indecent’ photographs of Fallarino.

 

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Since then, the villa has fallen into disrepair. Zannone is now inhabited only by the island’s mouflon wild sheep, a protected species, as well as the odd team of biologists, scientists and birdwatchers, who are the only ones allowed to – occasionally – spend the night, “camping in tents,” CNN Travel reports.Zannone was classified as part of the Circeo National Park in 1970.Tourists are also allowed to visit – and bathe in the same waters Anna Fallarino once capered about in.CNN Travel reports that, from the tour boat, “it’s possible to dive in and swim below the villa to the private pebble beach that the marquis’s wife once enjoyed.”

“Fallen tree trunks, palms and fluorescent green seaweed make it look like a Seychelles-style paradise.”

“Zannone is reachable only by boat from sister-isle Ponza,” CNN Travel reports, with former fishermen taking visitors on day boat trips a few times a week.

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The post The Italian 'Island Of Debauchery' You've Probably Never Heard Of appeared first on DMARGE Australia.

Never skimp on a pair of leather shoes. It’s a saying you’ve probably heard of before but never really wondered why. Today we’re going to answer that question.

Whether it’s a classic lace-up dress shoe or a casual pair of driving shoes, there’s a craft that goes into constructing every kind of leather shoe for men. What we’re exploring here is why some can cost well in excess of $1,000 whilst others can retail for around $60.

Isn’t a leather shoe just a leather shoe? Not quite.

Helping us on this journey into understanding the leather shoe game is Gabi Levi, founder of driving shoe brand Eve & Kane and Kaz of Kazuna, the only label providing custom-made Japanese leather shoes and boots to the Australian market.

How To Spot A Quality Leather Shoe

Before dropping your hard earned coin on any leather made shoe, it’s important to understand the qualities that make a good one.

According to Gabi Levi and Kaz, these are the traits you should always be looking for when hunting for the perfect leather shoe.

• Leather and suede flexibility – the softer the leather, the more comfortable it is on the feet. The downside to this is that it doesn’t last as long as thicker leather constructions which can also be cheaper to use
• Smell the inside of the shoe – if it smells like glue, you know it’s been made on the cheap with glue bonding as opposed to stitching
• Smell the leather – a good quality leather shoe needs to smell like good quality leather (i.e. non-synthetic smell)
• The soles of leather shoes are vital components – Kaz explains that high-end luxury shoes often have “hidden channels” where you can’t see the stitching on the bottom of the shoe. It’s a more elegant look which can add to the final cost of the leather dress shoe (see below)

• Leather grading is important – good quality leather should last longer and hold its shape more, especially in a deconstructed shoe like loafers
• When trying on leather shoes, try to feel the firmness of the inner sole. This will determine how comfortable the shoe is and its general quality
• Expensive shoes will use a better quality sole that’s designed to last up to three times longer than the average lifespan

How To Spot A Bad Quality Leather Shoe

Levi explains that for leather driver shoes or loafers, it’s always important to check how flimsy the finished product is.

If the shoe is too soft and flexible, it’ll likely be more comfortable but it won’t last as long and it won’t keep its shape.

Visually, you can also check things like:

• Stitching tightness
• Stitching spacing consistency
• Depth of the stitch (one lower than other or loose)

Hand Stitched vs Machine Stitched

All leather shoes are handmade to an extent as there’s no machine that can do the whole process autonomously from start to finish just yet. In other words, if a leather shoe claims to be “Handmade in Italy” or any other fancy country, it’s likely more of a marketing play than a reflection of the quality.

When addressing the point of manufacturing, both Kaz and Levi agree that the comparison should always be between a hand stitched leather shoe vs. a machine stitched leather shoe.

That’s where their shared opinion stops though.

Levi of Eve & Kane says…

“There’s this perception that if it’s hand stitched it’s better quality. In my opinion, it’s not the case. I personally think machine stitched is more precise and the stitch itself is tighter. I think machine stitching can last longer too. Hand stitching can be more expensive because the shoemaker has to sit there and stitch it, but it doesn’t necessarily equate to better quality.”

“Some hand stitched shoes out of Italy and Portugal aren’t nice looking shoes because you can tell the imperfections in them. Some people like that and call it ‘character’, but I personally call it shit and would go with machine stitched.”

“If you’re spending $300 to $500 on an Italian ‘handmade’ shoe, you’d want it to be precise.”

Kaz of Kazuna says…

“If it’s really a hand stitched product then you can avoid the tension. That’s how it creates the softness and comfort in the leather shoe. I think it’s much better than machine sewn.”

“But the real question is the stitch quality. Is the stitch a straight line or crooked? Italians might say the imperfection is just the character. The Japanese will say we have to redo it again.”

“Just between machine sewn and hand sewn, I think hand sewn is better because of the tension control.”

Does It Matter Where It’s Made?

Ah, the million dollar question. Whilst there’s no doubt that ‘Made in Italy’ carries with it a premium connotation for leather shoes, both Kaz and Levi warn that this label alone shouldn’t be the defining factor in your purchase.

In fact, whilst the Italians have earned their reputation for high quality shoemaking, customers should be vigilante against those who are exploiting the perception of ‘Made in Italy’ these days.

What Levi says…

“Most people have a stupid perception that if it’s made in Italy, it’s great. It really comes down to the individual factory.”

“The are amazing factories in Milan and also crap ones. The same goes for Portugal and China. Wherever it is, there’s always good and bad. It comes down to the factory’s experience and I don’t think where it’s made is important anymore.”

“The shoemakers in Italy, the artisans there are very traditional. They’ve been making shoes the same way for generations. Yes, they like to stick to their ways, but the Chinese are far superior when it comes to shoe making technology. They have CAD renderings and they can laser engrave any sort of material.”

“When it comes to dress shoes, the English make a good pair as well but again, it depends on who is manufacturing the shoe. I do think some countries are superior.”

What Kaz says…

“I don’t think country of manufacture matters. This goes in anything – not just leather shoes but suits and fabrics too. I wouldn’t dislike the Chinese made quality, just because it’s getting better and better now.”

“As for made in Italy, I think it’s hyped up a little bit. People think Italian made is always good but I’ve seen terrible shoes, terrible suits and fabrics from Italy that are disappointing.”

Construction Processes That Add To Price

Made in England. Made in Italy. Made in Japan. Made in China. Whilst we’ve established that the country of manufacture doesn’t matter as much in terms of quality, there are adopted construction styles in these regions that can set leather shoes apart based on how they’re worn.

What Ross Poulakis, founder of Harrolds says…

“Like everything in fashion, investing in lasting, timeless footwear is the key. A well made pair of shoes can last a lifetime if not generations.”

“Goodyear welting, hand painting, hand stitching and premium leathers are common techniques that speak of the artisanship that goes into the construction of luxury footwear.”

What Nick Schaerf, co-founder of Double Monk says…

“High quality shoes, if well fitted, will mould to your foot over time and provide support and comfort as they wear in.”

“Full-grain leather can be conditioned and treated to remain soft and supple for decades.”

“Most high-end Italian shoes are Blake stitched, built for loafing around in piazzas rather than commuting or wearing several days a week for years on end.”

“English shoemakers can’t be beaten for sturdiness. The English bench-made shoe has its origins in military boot making, so durability has always been paramount, with refinement coming over many decades. The cornerstone component is a Goodyear welted sole.”

The Goodyear Welted Method

Kaz of Kazuna explains that the Japanese way of leather dress shoe making follows closer to the English.

“The only difference is the types of leathers, what goes inside and the quality of the cork. The method is the same.”

This method he refers to is the aforementioned Goodyear Welted method of leather shoe making. It takes more than 200 steps to complete which adds to the higher final cost, but the advantage is that the shoe is made in a way that it can be repaired and resoled countless times.

“Glued shoes are inexpensive, but you can’t repair them. And it depends on how often you’ll wear it. You’re pretty much stuck with something that you can’t wear for a very long time,” says Kaz.

“Once you like the fit of a shoe, you’ll want to keep it as long as you can and repair the sole and heel. This is the Goodyear Welt method.”

“As for Blake stitching found in expensive Italian shoes, you can repair it but maybe twice or three times at most. After that it’s unrepairable. The Goodyear Welt is a semi-lifetime method of construction.”

The reason most Italian shoemakers use Blake stitching? Lightness. The final product is lighter than the Welt produced shoe because there’s no shank and no cork – a point made by Schaerf above.

In other words, it’s more for fashion than everyday wearing.

Maintenance Matters For Cheap Or Expensive Shoes

More money equals less maintenance, right? Wrong. An expensive leather shoe isn’t easier to maintain over a cheaper one in any way. The same level of care needs to be applied to any leather shoe if you want it to last.

The price factor only plays into the option aspect once wear and tear takes its toll: Can you repair or is your only option to dump?

An expensive leather shoe will give you the option to repair at a lower cost when compared to buying a brand new shoe every time it breaks. So there’s the maths.

This is why people like Levi and Kaz have seen their ventures flourish in recent years.

Levi focuses on providing affordable luxury where his Chinese and Portuguese-made leather driving shoes and loafers target big ticket Italian names like Tod’s. He claims that his shoes are superior to the Italian made ones at less than half the price.

The post The Difference Between $1,000 & $100 Leather Shoes, Explained By Experts appeared first on DMARGE Australia.

Regardless of what you think of him, it’s hard to deny that David Beckham is a good dad.The 45-year-old football legend has four children with his wife Victoria: sons Brooklyn, Romeo and Cruz; and daughter Harper. Unlike many celebrity parents, Beckham always has time for his kids – indeed, many football insiders suggest that it’s this dedication that sowed the seeds for his departure from Manchester United in the 00s, pointing to an incident where Beckham enraged coach Alex Ferguson by skipping training to look after Brooklyn when he had gastro back in the year 2000. Niche, but emblematic of the kind of dad he is.But we guess a father’s love only goes so far, as Beckham’s turned a heartwarming moment with his daughter into an opportunity to flex his latest watch pickup. Last week, Beckham shared a ‘family photo’ of him sharing an embrace with 9-year-old Harper. Cute… Except that his Tudor Heritage Chrono Blue (ref. M70330B-0004) is very conspicuously in the centre of the shot. Was it really ‘cuddle time’, or ‘watch appreciation time’? You be the judge.

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Regardless of how staged the photo might be, we have to admit it’s a nice watch.First released back in 2013 upon Tudor’s return to the US market, the Heritage Chrono Blue pays homage to the 1973 Tudor Chronograph ‘Monte Carlo’ (ref. 7169), a favourite among Tudor/Rolex collectors. Unlike that watch, the Heritage Chrono Blue features an automatic movement with a 42-hour power reserve; a smaller date window sans cyclops with a flatter crystal overall; plus a matte, brushed case finish and tightly knurled pushers.It’s a very handsome watch and one of Tudor’s slightly more obscure offerings, often overshadowed by the immensely popular Black Bay and Pelagos model ranges. Of course, as a Tudor ambassador, Beckham can have his pick of the entire Tudor range, with other left-of-centre models such as the Black Bay P01 and Tudor Royal also in his expansive collection.RELATED: David Beckham Helps Launch Tudor’s Latest Black Bay Fifty-Eight TimepieceReally, one could argue that doing brand promo like this is putting food on his kid’s plates, so really he’s actually being a good dad by doing so. Besides, who are we to judge? If I had kids I’d be shoehorning them into every photo I upload to social media like some Byron Bay ‘murfer’ who’s had their almonds fully activated.In other watch news, check out Romeo Beckham’s stylish new Patek Philippe. We guess it’s ‘like father, like son’ when it comes to watches on the feed…

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The post David Beckham Loves His New Tudor Watch Almost As Much As His Kids appeared first on DMARGE Australia.

Subcultures rarely remain just that – subcultures. These bad boy minority groups soon latch onto larger social groups and eventually infiltrate the major population, providing good reason for modern the man to dabble with a renegade sense of style.

Once exclusive cliques, the rockers, bikers, street urbanites and punks are today key influencers of men’s fashion. Each takes it to lead from the very antithesis of fashion. But, we’ve gleaned these anti-norm ensembles for a little bit of bad boy that’s very much stylish this season. Especially, if you’re feeling rebellious.

The Modern Rocker

While the biker look is nothing new, this season is about pairing its prime item – the leather jacket, with more clean, sophisticated pieces. New ways to wear the leather perfecto – the most understated and refined version of the jacket – include ‘smartly’, wearing a crisp white shirt and black Derbies, doing away with a common suit jacket.

Otherwise, go rock star with the same effortlessly cool jacket, this time lending itself to a more day-ready outfit. Straying from the traditional rocker route, this season is all about the clean bad boy, wearing the jacket over a plain basic t-shirt, tastefully distressed jeans and a pair of black hi-cut Derby boots.

Another killer rock look involves washed out denim, a long, open-neck button-down in cotton and a square-shouldered top coat accompanied by a bandana-inspired, paisley print scarf. A key ensemble was worn by muso Cody Simpson, the rugged suede Chelsea’s base out the look. And do not roll the jeans.

The Contemporary Punk

While bleached mohawks aren’t returning any time soon, the tenets of punk sure are, namely the embellished leather jacket. Unlike the rocker or biker aesthetic, the punk looks to leather differently (usually the perfecto jacket) sprayed with tasteful badges and metallic hardware.

Traditional leather jackets come with studs, contrast lapels and even animal print chest panels for those feeling extra adventurous, based out by heavy-duty boots, ripped jeans and flashes of tartan or plaid – the symbol of punk since its Seventies origins.

RELATED: How To Dress Like A Scandinavian

Keeping the look very black, pair the detailed leather jacket with cleaner items, like straight-leg trousers and a button-down shirt. Or opt for the punk plaid shirt over shredded jeans but with clean, black sneakers. Accessories – a tartan scarf or metallic jewellery – are another easy way to punk-up a black outfit. Don’t go completely thematic with the punk look, however. It’s not Halloween.

The Fresh Anti-Fit

As sports-luxe continues its furore, the breaking down of traditional silhouettes in casual wear and tailoring has morphed into a rebellious disregard for classic men’s wear.

Finding its roots in oversized tees, the anti-fit, urban style sees t-shirts, button-ups and knitwear lengths drop to below the waist; retaining a slim-ish shape so not to lose the style. Dubbed longline, the largely monochromatic black and white look counteracts the bold proportions, with relaxed trousers and eradication of the skinny fit jean.

Metallic jewellery also adds a spark to the neutral style, which is a must-know for any streetwear fiend, not afraid to rock the status quo. Key pieces include a longline plain tee (layered over another), trousers with a cuffed ankle, felt hat, a neck chain and white sneakers.

The Future Classic Rockabilly

Not to be confused with the hillbilly, the rockabilly has seen a renaissance this decade, primarily through the look’s signature hairdo – the gelled pompadour, and maintaining it perfectly sleek. And this season is about the modern rockabilly, reneging against long, unruly hair and sloppy street brands.

Rather than sticking to the classic biker jacket, look to the zip-up leather blouson in a true rockabilly style, which is being made cool again by style icons like Alex Turner.

RELATED: How To Dress Like A Berliner

For a dressier approach, still look to rock classics – penny loafers, Cuban collar shirts, two-tone brogues, black jeans and skinny monochrome tailoring – focalising the look with metallic shades under the cool ‘do. Keep that comb handy too, for any mischievous hairs.

Final Words

It goes without saying that the leather jacket is a must-purchase for dressing like a bad boy. Distressed denim in black and boots – both suede and black leather – are two other key items for boldly channelling your inner rocker and punk.

The anti-fit and rock star look involve longer shirting and layers too, so be sure to stock up on under pieces and a solid top coat to finish it off.

The post How To Dress Like A Modern Bad Boy appeared first on DMARGE Australia.

Underscoring the move toward a bolder male wardrobe, bold prints are the need-it-now item to inject some va-va-voom into minimal or neutral outfits this season. Just in time for the seasonal change, prints are ripe for the picking: florals (obvs), animal prints, and the more classic checks and stripes are print trends leaving their mark on your favourite men’s fashion pieces.

“Florals are always a must in spring,”says Thai Nguyen, senior stylist at Topman. Plus, they make for some much need colour and vibrancy in the winter. “This season, polka dots, stripes and old fashion florals are key prints for men,” adds Nguyen. “But lean more toward pastels and muted tones for a quieter vibe,” adds Nguyen.

This season’s print mantra? “Think 1950s by the seaside.”

Where To Print It

Shirts, shorts and shoes are all getting the bold print treatment. So, learning how to wear the bold print trend — what fellow fashion items best accompany the pattern and colour — in a variety of smart and casual scenarios is essential style savoir-faire for standing out in the crowd. And, for all the right reasons.

“Don’t be scared to work in your own individual style, and have fun playing around with different patterns and new colour ways,” says Nguyen. Here’s how, Mr Floral.

Shirt It

By design, printed shirts are a lot more casual than their dress shirt counterparts. But, that doesn’t mean you should shun the joining of a leopard print shirt with tailored black jeans or a neon hibiscus shirt tucked into formal trousers. In fact, get it right, and the combination is all the more impressive.

And, the bold print shirt even extends to tailoring, as long as the suit is soft in construction to embrace the playful, dressed down feel of the loud pattern. “Look to plain suiting,” suggests Nguyen. “The shirt is the hero piece.” A black base colour in the shirt retains a certain formality with prints. And stick to navy, beige and grey — neutrals, really — for suit colour options.

Pant Prints

Print leg wear provides the chance to make a real statement. Soliciting your bottom half as the spot for wardrobe brilliance is the perfect alternative to an everybody-does-it jacket or shirt. The same rules apply: make the print the focal point of your look, hushing the rest of your outfit

“Keep it basic up top,” says Nguyen. White cotton shirts cannot be overlooked. The other important aspect? Matching your printed trouser to your footwear. Simple is best. So, look to footwear every man should own. “A casual sneaker, dress shoe and sandal will work well.”

Bombs Away

The bomber jacket is one of the hottest men’s style piece to own in 2016 — in any season, all social occasions and even to the office. So, it makes perfect sense for the trend heavyweight to collide with fashion fellow — bold prints. Enter the souvenir jacket. It dates back to the post-WWII years when American soldiers stationed in Japan commissioned these ornate, hand-made jackets as a souvenir of their time stationed abroad.

Fast-forward fifty-odd years, and not much of the satin-y, nylon jacket has changed: a mixture of east and west iconography such as eagles, tigers and cherry blossoms, as well as Japanese lettering.

Making the most out of the heritage sensibility jeans are a surefire way to rock the bomber right. “Try denim for the day,” says Nguyen. “After dark, a tailored trouser is nice with an optional collared shirt or simply a plain t-shirt.” Steve McQueen would be proud.

Blazer

Before the idea imprints into your brain, you shouldn’t really consider wearing head-to-toe prints – à la suits or separates. Instead, let a subtly printed blazer provide the statement — nothing too look-at-me, unless it’s spring race day or fancy dress.

“Only the bold should opt for a co-ord,” says Nguyen. Otherwise, consider your go-with-everything bottom options — blue jeans, trousers or even tailored shorts. Or another pant classic. “Try pairing the printed blazer back, with some nice, pressed chinos.” Add in some tan brogues or a rich oxblood loafer, especially in there are red tones in your blazer.

Accessories

More the shy style guy? Bold prints are still for you, thanks to accessories. With tailoring, neckerchiefs or a pocket square inject vibrancy, while the rest of your look is sleepy, yet chic. And old faithful — socks, as well as shoes and even a t-shirt (when layered by a jacket or blazer) prove easy ways to incorporate prints.

“Don’t be scared to work in your own individual style, and have fun playing around with different patterns and new colour ways,” suggests Nguyen.

Textural prints and dark coloured patterns are safer still, and can lift a monochrome outfit, even for minimalists.

The post How To Wear The Bold Prints appeared first on DMARGE Australia.